How To Change A Motorcycle Inner Tube

A basic overview of changing a front tire inner tube on a motorcycle. This bike is a friend’s Kawasaki KLR 650. Support Hack A Week with a donation:
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  • can't pump air to my tire like it feels stuck what can it be

  • Don't forget to check or replace the rim strip on your spoke tire!

  • Hi, I am an am-mature, a rookie, rallist on a two-wheeler. Can you show us some the same way but the rear wheel/ tube change, particularly when the tire is a broad one, with hardened inner circumference (I don't know the exact name of that section)? How to 'slip it over' the rim? I am sure you understand how difficult, and limited, is to change a tube while on the off-road trial. :-)

  • I literally laughed at the jump cut while putting the valve stem through. That's the only hard part, and it was skipped right over.

  • Thanks, just wondering is there any need to balance the tire after?

  • Never snug up a valve stem nut. Thats for locking the cap.

  • Thanks…!…Great video man!… by the way 6:14… she really works out!!! its better not to make her mad! good job on that tire thanks for posting it!!!!!, I hope to get it right to

  • Pheeww, just grinding the shit outta that brake disk on the floor there man…

  • My manual says never to put weight over the disc brake because it can bend.

  • I do not know where you are from but there is a company here in Seattle called Tacoma screw and they have damn near any form of bolt you could imagine trust me call them with the specs and they will do there best. I had the cb 750 1979 model and i feel your pain on parts.

  • An interesting take on a puncture repair but hey it worked.
    Valve stems usually break away if the tyre pressure is insufficient.  What happens is there is not enough grip to keep the tyre in place, the tube stays with the tyre and the valve stays with the rim and the two part company. If for some reason you need to keep a low tyre pressure, do not tighten the valve nut all the way to the rim but have it at the cap end. What will now happen is the valve will lean over if the tyre creeps giving a warning of slip, which you can fix before problems occur.
    Might I suggest you always take the tyre off to visually and physically feel to check for nasties. I have seen things as small as thorns go through tyres and as big as a 4" 3/8 bolt and once a match stick! Visual checks will show things like splits in the tyre which you wont be able to feel but can start to nibble their way through a tube everytime the wheel turns. Yes the voice of experience speaking, probably did about 10K roadside repairs whilst doing breakdowns in London for a goodly number of years.

  • Soapy water will encourage the rims to rust at a later date. A good cheap alternative that won't rot your rubber is KY Jelly (yes – the stuff from the bedroom). When it dries it also provides additional grip to the rim.

  • If I'm changing a tire or a tube. I break bead on side I'm removing first. Then push tire towards center. Use irons to remove tire from one side. Flip over and repeat, the rim will now be in the center of tire, push down and remove rim. Now tube is in the tire. Install new tube with little pressure. The install rim valve stem first inside tire. Install bead on one side. Check pressure of tube. You may need to release some air. I use baby powder inside of tire between tube, and soap and water to seat bead. And I never tighten those nuts to clamp on air valve in fact I angle the stem so it's forward of rotation. Then you can visual if the tire is slipping

  • this one is a great DIY video, but I was worried a bit about the brake disc – a wooden blocks under the rim (2 or 3) will keep the disc away from the ground and will keep it straight ;)

  • You might want to think about adding a rim lock to the KLR.  You would be surprised how little braking force is needed to rotate the tire on the rim enough to rip out the valve stem.  I had to add a rim lock on the front wheel of a small dirt bike (Yamaha TTR125) because the boy was using so much front brake.  On the street you have even more grip and more chance to spin the tire.

  • You don't prefill the tube to be like a pillow before you put it in? That will keep out the wrinkles (that will cause a flat later)

  • What's the advantage of a spoke rim over tubeless rim? I hate spoke rims.

  • Im actually making a klr650 cafe racer right now as we speak! i just crafted the tank but Idk what fiberglass or resin to use to keep it from getting eaten by gasoline. Can you please tell me?

  • Putting a little bit of air in the tube before prying the bead back over onto the wheel really helps a lot with pinching the tube with the tire irons.  If you do that, it has a tendency to center itself inside the tire and pull away from the edges of the rim.  

  • Hey you look ten years younger with that hair cut. Just keep the close-ups to a minimum.  : )

  • Time for a home torque wrench & spoons. I like soapy water. Well done as always.
    Thanks for another neat video. I vote for the lighter Aluminum Rods.

  • It went "BUNK" : ) made me smile 

  • have a machinist machine new rod boltz!

  • Actually good hair cut Dean… though you could have gone shorter and not have to worry about it being too short. From a guys perspective anyways, you look good man.   
    It is cool to see "Guest Stars"  helping out we dont get to see that much, would be cool to see more of that when you do projects… ALONG WITH BLOOPERS AT THE END!
    Yeh you are right about the sanals bad both to ride with(if itis anything like a bicycles just bad), and to work in as well, never work in sandals in the shop BAD JUJU, I have dropeed cars on my feet cause of bad jacks that go out without warning, lucky for me I had steel toes shoes… that is all i wear when i work on cars now. Better to slice than crush, least with a slice they can sew it back on with a crush you are screwed.

    Ok that tube and stem… i have only seen that once before… only when jerks on it hard, then pulls it off carelessly… that is just just… yeh.

    No new cotter pin?

    But as always great video, and I hope too see more 'guest stars' 😉 Always cool to see new people, and Lisa(?right) helping out in the shop and such.

  • I think a p.o of my CL used screwdrivers to change a tyre, the rims are very scratched and abused looking, gouges. Still solid though, and I can't afford to replace them if they're still serviceable. I'm glad you were being careful, I guess you don't use tyre levers as often as i do or you'd know where yours were. Mind you, one advantage of a tiny shed, if I dig deep enough I know I'm going to find what I want in the jumble, somehow.

  • disc side up! and start on the valve and finish on the valve and pop both beads…Also if you cut the top off a 20 litre oil drum and cover it in a rag it makes it much easier to to tyres without risk of damage to the disc!

  • put some air in the tube before you put it in and it wont pinch or bind up

  • LOL I was gonna say about the shoes but you did at the same moment I was thinking it. Glad to see she's wearing a helmet, can't believe some places it's still not required over there

  • was that front tire directional? going the wrong way ? 

  • I inflate the inner tube a little before levering the tyre back down, it helps put the tube up and out of the way.

  • then you can go ahead with your fine honda

  • Did I see some soapy water? Putting a small amount of air in the tube prior to reseating the bead prevents pinch flatting. I'd like to see a DIY on a modern radial , with balancing.

  • Have you tried ARP fasteners for the rod Bolts?

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